One of the earliest spring snow free hikes in Central Oregon's forests is the hike to Chush Falls. The trailhead is located off the road to Three Creeks Lake outside of Sisters several miles down a gravel road and then a short trek up a narrow dirt and rock road. The parking area is small so people wanting to hike the relatively short 2.2 miles to lower Chush Falls should plan on arriving early to get a parking space.
The trail starts in burned forest - the result of the 2017 Milli Fire. However, unlike the experience with earlier hikes, almost all of the burned trees from this fire which have fallen across the path have been cleared which makes the trek to Lower Chush Falls fairly quick. One result of the fire are the views of North/Middle Sister and Broken Top are more unobstructed. And the new young trees are getting taller and starting to be seen through the manzanita and snowbrush.
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For those who really want to see Lower Chush Falls, there is a steep scramble down the hillside to the base of the falls; the viewpoint at the top is disappointing with tall trees and vegetation obstructing views. However, for those who can tackle the steep hillside, the views of the falls from the base are wonderful.
After climbing back up to the viewpoint, hikers can elect to return to the trailhead or continue on to Upper Chush Falls past smaller Cascades Waterfall. This path has not been cleared of fallen trees, so it is much slower to hike over, under and around the tree trunks. However, for those who make it to the trail's end, it is surprising to see the 200 foot waterfall; Lower Chush Falls is 50 feet. The vegetation is thick at the base of Upper Chush Falls with the canyon Whychus Creek flows through steep so it is challenging to really get a great view. The easiest access for photos is up the hillside above the creek over an unsteady rockfall. All in all, for those who make it to Upper Chush Falls, the total hike is 6.5 miles with 961 feet of elevation gain.
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The trail to the top of Black Butte starts part way up the butte after a drive on a fairly well maintained dirt and gravel road followed by a poorly maintained dirt and rock road. Once you reach the trailhead (complete with stocked toilets), the two mile hike to the top of the butte can be accomplished fairly quickly. Hikers gain over 1500 feet in the two miles, but the Cascade views from Broken Top to Mt Adams can be spectacular on a clear day.
There is limited parking at the Black Butte Trailhead (forest pass required) so hikers are recommended to arrive early to get a spot and to avoid crowds. The hike is very popular with visitors to Black Butte Ranch and and Camp Sherman as well as local year-round residents.
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The hike to Alder Springs outside of Sisters limits motorized access from December 1st through March 31st to protect the winter rangeland of the local deer populations. However, access to the trail head is on rough dirt roads for which 4 wheel drive and high vehicle clearance is recommended. Directions to the official trail head can be found on the USDA website. The "unofficial" route involves travel on Locust Street (Camp Polk Road) in Sisters 3.1 miles north from East Cascade Avenue. Take this to Wilt Road, staying on Wilt when the pavement ends 4 miles. Past Rimrock Ranch the road is less maintained. Travel another 2.2 miles until you see a sharp unmarked turnoff to the right onto a rough dirt road. Travel on this past a gate until you reach a picnic area next to Whychus Creek which provides for a water crossing during dry times of the year. There is a beautiful mesa above the crossing and signage for a Native American archaeological site.
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The unofficial trail parallels Whychus Creek for over 3.5 miles from the picnic area down the western side of Whychus Canyon eventually dropping to Alder Springs. The trail has some sections which are difficult to locate and other areas where the tract comes close to the canyon rim and the steep drop to the creek. In the summer the exposure with limited trees would make the hike very warm; hikers should be careful to bring plenty of water. Alder Springs is where the "official" trail crosses Whychus Creek and hikers using this trail need to wade across the stream to go any further; in April the water is cold.
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Hikers can enjoy the shade from the many trees and the water bubbling up from rocks at Alder Springs, eventually flowing into Whychus Creek. Or they can continue down Whychus Creek another 1.5 miles to the confluence of the creek with the Deschutes River. This section of the hike has far more vegetation which creates more shade, but also more obstacles to push aside, walk around or over. Close to the confluence is a stone cliff from which a spring flows creating a lovely waterfall. Access to this involves stepping around shrubs and trees to see it and as the vegetation grows later in the spring, many hikers will probably miss the waterfall as it will be hidden from the path. At the confluence, a large rock formation provides the perfect space for lunch and enjoyment of the flowing water and towering rock formations.
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All in all, traveling the unofficial route will take more time, but the beauty of the high desert is very much displayed during the hike. Just over 1000 feet of elevation change, 11+ miles, and keeping feet dry make this unofficial route to Alder Springs a wonderful spring or late fall hike.
We have hiked from McCay Crossing to Paulina Falls multiple times, typically in the late fall and early spring when crowds are gone and snow accumulation is limited. We have always enjoyed the experience and have seen Paulina Creek and the numerous falls along the path in various stages of flow - spring run off, fall with lessened volume, and winter ice. Some of our favorite experiences have involved the ice, and we have named that experience "chasing frozen waterfalls."
The hike we did 11-11-23 was in the fall after first snow, but after warmer temperatures had melted much of the snow in the lower elevations. We saw just a handful of people the entire day and our hike up and back was much faster than we experience when we have to walk through snow. But we had an opportunity to discover little seen or accessed waterfalls and had a wonderful day. The total hike was 13.8 miles with roughly 1600 feet of elevation gain.
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People exploring the Three Sisters Wilderness can hike to Broken Top from multiple trailheads. Three Creeks to Tam McArthur Rim provides for a social trail past Broken Hand to Broken Top and No Name Lake. Hikers looking for more distance can start at the Green Lakes Trailhead and hike Soda Creek to join with the Broken Top trail. Most people will drive past Todd Lake on the poorly maintained road to the Broken Top trailhead (high clearance vehicles are recommended) and cut the distance to 5.5 miles and under 1500 feet of elevation gain. And there is a well defined trail starting at Todd Lake which creates a much longer hike through old growth forest to join with the Soda Creek Trail and then the Broken Top trail. Total distance to the Broken Top summit exceeds 14 miles and pushes 2700 feet of elevation gain, but the experience is well worth it. Stunning views of Broken Top's eastern flank and Mt Bachelor become visible after hikers join with the Broken Top trail; bushwhacking in this open area can lead to new areas to explore and other beautiful views.
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The hike taken October 21, 2023 was on a sunny, warm day after snow had fallen the week before. Remnants of melting snow were obvious, but created no real obstacles for hikers. This was also the first weekend in 2023 that did not require trailhead passes, so the trail was busy with many Broken Top hikers and off leash dogs; at times it seemed as if there were more dogs than people, but all encountered were well behaved and the people very friendly and happy to be out enjoying the beauty of the Central Oregon Cascades. No Name Lake was beautiful and cold with snow and glacial runoff, and the views from the summit toward Middle and North Sister were outstanding, although the ridge was very windy and not the best place to enjoy lunch.
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